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Thread: Air Diaphragm Pump Trouble

  1. #11
    Prestige Member
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Asheboro NC
    Posts
    1,577
    Wow Ken thats nice i ever had any trouble but i didnt use mine a whole lot.
    Hal Brown
    Sophia Nc 27350
    www.AbvPressureWashing.com

  2. #12
    Ken why do you run he air line into the water tank? That will only condense any water that is in the air.

    My real job uses ALOT of air diaphragm pumps and we actually HEAT the air to dry it before we use it. The hotter the air the better it will run thru the pump. Even at high temps if the pump is working hard and using up a lot of air the shuttle(the middle block of the pump) will sweat.

    What is happening with the pump in question is the shuttle is stuck. There are shuttle valves and timing bars in that shuttle assembly that will stick from lack of lubricant. You can try the wd40 but also try a real light mineral oil as it won't evaporate like the wd40 which is actually a solvent.

    PS if the diaphragm is blow then you will get liquid out of the exhaust.

    There are only a few things that will stop these pumps.
    Shuttle stuck (air blowing straight thru the exhaust,sometime low air pressure will cause this as well )
    Blown diaphragm (liquid out of the exhaust)
    timing bar bent (pump won't pump with no blow by on the shuttle)
    trash in the ball checks (If this happens you will see bubbling on the suction line).
    J.C. Galmiche
    Cajun Cleanin' Powerwashing
    Daphne, Al.
    251-510-9508
    cajuncleanin@mchsi.com
    www.cajuncleanin.com
    Pressure washing Daphne,Fairhope,Alabama.

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by cajun cleanin View Post
    Ken why do you run he air line into the water tank? That will only condense any water that is in the air.

    My real job uses ALOT of air diaphragm pumps and we actually HEAT the air to dry it before we use it. The hotter the air the better it will run thru the pump. Even at high temps if the pump is working hard and using up a lot of air the shuttle(the middle block of the pump) will sweat.
    What you are saying makes sense to me but I am an admitted infant in these setups. Cooling the air (50' of line with a good potion in coiled in the reserve tank) was recommended to me by Kevin Enderle to prevent freezing. My best guess is lower temp air contains less humidity and/or less of a temp differential between the intake and exhaust will cause less condensation at the pump?

  4. #14
    The air is going to contain whatever amount of humidity is has when it is pulled into the compressor unless you have a separator.

    I'm just guessing you are pulling warm wet air in from the back of the van as 1. it's hot with the machine running or not and 2. you may have a water tank in there for running the machines.

    The freezing thing is going to take A lot of air flow for that to happen.I have seen it but that's on a 3 inch stainless Wilden's or Vanton's with 110 psi at who knows what air flow.

    If it is working for you don't change it
    J.C. Galmiche
    Cajun Cleanin' Powerwashing
    Daphne, Al.
    251-510-9508
    cajuncleanin@mchsi.com
    www.cajuncleanin.com
    Pressure washing Daphne,Fairhope,Alabama.

  5. #15
    I posted the information about 2 years agoabout running the hoses through a water tank and the effect it had on my air setup. It explains why it works:

    If you have a fresh water tank on board, as many guys who also pressure wash often do,....run your 50' of hose through the water tank,..provides extra cooling of the air. Just make two holes in the top of the tank for the hose ends to run through,..just silicone around the holes. I was fortunate when I did this,..my tank has a big rectangular opening that I was able to allow the hose to stay coiled except for what I needed to run to the compressor and pump. I left enough hose so the coil of air line just floats up and down with the water level.

    These pumps like dry air,...and before,.. my water trap wasn't working because the
    trap is made to catch droplets of water,..NOT vapor,..the vapor just passes on through and condenses inside the pump which isn't good for operation. Aside from the non-stalling I could tell it was working instantly because my water trap was about 1/2-3/4 full at the end of a roof job,..where as before there was hardly anything in it.

    *I took the time last year to learn a little about proper compressor setups,..was well worth the reading. Guys who do this inside a garage can make a cheap air drying system by using a good length of copper in a coil, and submerge it into a 55 gallon barrel. Copper is better at cooling than PVC air hose. This is where I got the idea from to begin with. This is nowhere near a proper garage type air drying setup,.with drop legs and all,..but I'm mobile and am limited on space,..but,..this simple idea made my air pump work flawlessly. Maybe 2 stalls since doing this. I actually only remember one.

    Jeff







    Last edited by Raystown Roof Cleaning; 07-14-2017 at 05:52 PM.
    Jeff Wible
    Raystown Roof Cleaning
    Serving Central Pa Since 1996
    T.V Commercial

  6. #16
    When I posted this thread I really thought I had screwed up my pump. As it turns out lack of pressure was causing my pump to stall. My compressor is 12 CFM and it runs the pump like a champ for a while but it can't maintain enough pressure at full speed to run the pump for a long period. When it stalls I can reset it every time by blowing air into the exhaust.

    After playing around with different air pressures I have found the "sweet spot" for this pump & compressor combo. I assume that will change some the higher off the ground I go. Is that correct?

    I now have a combo regulator / dryer attached and as recommended in the owners manual I have an oiler that I'll be installing as well. Also, the drain valves were almost impossible to get to on the bottom of the compressor tanks. I plumed a hose to the bottom of each tank with a ball valve on the end at the edge of my trailer. I can now easily drain the compressor every time I use it. There was some really nasty sludge draining out of it the first half dozen or so times I drained the tanks but now it's all clean.

    Thanks for all the input on this thread. I'm enjoying this adventure.

    Keith
    Last edited by Keith Brookshire; 07-12-2016 at 09:43 AM.

  7. #17
    We have a 1/2" AirFlo and if there is an air leak anywhere is doesn't work. Other than that, they are wonderful.
    Robbie Miller
    Quality Pressure Washing of Houston
    832-792-5420
    QualityPressureWashingOfHouston.com

  8. #18
    Air pumps prefer dry clean air. Oil shouldn't be used or needed on a regular basis. I do give a shot of WD-40 every now and then,.but as a whole oil isn't needed.

    Jeff
    Last edited by Raystown Roof Cleaning; 07-15-2017 at 06:30 AM.
    Jeff Wible
    Raystown Roof Cleaning
    Serving Central Pa Since 1996
    T.V Commercial

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