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Thread: Ladders and Pressure Washers

  1. #21

  2. #22

    Re: Ladders and Pressure Washers

    I roofed as a young lad and learned not to play around when it comes to ladders.
    Be safe!
    Thad Eckhoff
    Apex Services
    Hattiesburg, MS
    (601) 329-5819

  3. #23

    Re: Ladders and Pressure Washers

    Is it just me or are the Fiberglass ladders heavier than the Aluminum ladders? I grew up working with Aluminum ladders then heard about how safe the Fiberglass ladders are but never had one until I got my 24' extension and 12' step ladder. I need to find Aluminum in these sizes and get rid of the Fiberglass. I am never around electric wires when I work with ladders so I think I will be safe with the Aluminum. Growing up we had the 24', 32', and 40' commercial rental duty ladders my dad bought from the rental place when they got too much paint on them and the owner wanted everythig looking nice for rental. Those 40' ladders were heavy. I would hate to use one today.

  4. #24

    Re: Ladders and Pressure Washers

    Fiberglass is much heavier.
    Thad Eckhoff
    Apex Services
    Hattiesburg, MS
    (601) 329-5819

  5. #25
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    Re: Ladders and Pressure Washers

    I would like to hear a comparison on the Little Giant/Gorilla, and similar type ladders. I have the little giant and I think its the best thing since sliced bread... The only down fall is the price.

    Hows does the Gorilla, the Jaws or others compare in price and quality?

  6. #26
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    Re: Ladders and Pressure Washers

    [quote author=Celeste@CarolinaProWash link=topic=249.msg4430#msg4430 date=1168119821]
    we can't afford to get hurt on those death trap things! Feet on ground is a good thing [/quote]

    +5 And when I must use a ladder, I have equalizer legs, a top stabilizer bar, and if necessary it's anchored at the top and bottom.

    [quote author=Chris link=topic=249.msg14904#msg14904 date=1177196505]
    Just wondering if there is something that will keep the ladder from moving other than a helper when you are not around.[/quote]

    Yes. Make yourself a couple of adjustable rope loops (climbing leaders) and put two carabiners on them. If you are near a bush or post, clip the ladder off real quick. If not, screw an anchor into the ground and tether to it. At the top, clip the ladder around two gutter spikes. It just takes a few extra seconds, and can save your life.
    "If ye love wealth greater than liberty, the tranquility of servitude greater than the animating contest for freedom, go home from us in peace. We seek not your counsel, nor your arms. Crouch down and lick the hand that feeds you; and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen." -
    Samuel Adams

  7. #27

    Re: Ladders and Pressure Washers

    If you use a ladder stabilizer - just put it over the bottom roof edge so it touches the roofing shingles - this way the ladder physically cannot knock out from underneath you. I am a painter and have gotten use to using ladders alone. It takes alot for them to slip in reality. I also use the ladder pivit tool alot. And other than a fiberglass step ladder - I have all aluminum type 1, 1A, & 1AA ladders. My louisville 40' is rated type 1A, but is really type 1AA that got downgraded. Now that's a heavy ladder!
    Daniel Tambasco
    (978)749-9808
    'Oh, they're not scared of you. They're scared of what you represent to 'em.' -George Hanson, Easy Rider

  8. #28
    Prestige Member
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    Re: Ladders and Pressure Washers

    [quote author=pldoolittle link=topic=249.msg53068#msg53068 date=1206115216]
    [quote author=Celeste@CarolinaProWash link=topic=249.msg4430#msg4430 date=1168119821]
    we can't afford to get hurt on those death trap things! Feet on ground is a good thing [/quote]

    +5 And when I must use a ladder, I have equalizer legs, a top stabilizer bar, and if necessary it's anchored at the top and bottom.

    [quote author=Chris link=topic=249.msg14904#msg14904 date=1177196505]
    Just wondering if there is something that will keep the ladder from moving other than a helper when you are not around.[/quote]

    Yes. Make yourself a couple of adjustable rope loops (climbing leaders) and put two carabiners on them. If you are near a bush or post, clip the ladder off real quick. If not, screw an anchor into the ground and tether to it. At the top, clip the ladder around two gutter spikes. It just takes a few extra seconds, and can save your life.
    [/quote]

    Very good advice Phil, and a great idea too!
    Jackson MS

    Extreme Video Training
    www.extremevideotraining.com
    [url=http://www.extremevideotraining.com]Video Services in Jackson MS[/url

  9. #29
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    Re: Ladders and Pressure Washers

    [quote author=plainpainter link=topic=249.msg84219#msg84219 date=1226168654]
    this way the ladder physically cannot knock out from underneath you. [/quote]

    Tell that to my guy decided safety protocol was a PITA and as a result hung from the gutters 'til help arrived... He set up on a hill (with stabilizer) and didn't bother to tie off the feet. It was soft soil and the ladder feet went down the hill and rotated that stabilizer right off the roof.

    Standard equipment on our truck is a big screw anchor (30" long, not like the corkscrew for a dog), a piece of galv pipe (to install the anchor), rope loops and carabiners. If the situation isn't flat, hard, and level, the ladder gets tied off at bottom (bush or anchor) and clipped to a gutternail on top. We will repair property damage before we will repair people damage.
    "If ye love wealth greater than liberty, the tranquility of servitude greater than the animating contest for freedom, go home from us in peace. We seek not your counsel, nor your arms. Crouch down and lick the hand that feeds you; and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen." -
    Samuel Adams

  10. #30
    Super Helper Member
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    Re: Ladders and Pressure Washers

    [quote author=FCPWLLC link=topic=249.msg2015#msg2015 date=1166270427]
    Author Unknown....

    Pressure Washers and Ladders


    When using pressure washers, no matter what type ladders you are using it pays to be extra careful. Falls from even low heights can create seriously painful or disabling injuries. Credible estimates by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission state that these accidents create 65,000 visits annually to hospital emergency rooms.
    When choosing your ladder, consider the use, the load and the general condition of the ladder.
    Ladders are rated for total weight they can carry; this includes the operator plus any materials he/she may be carrying. These are duty rated. Type III ladders are designed for homeowner use with a maximum load of 200lbs. for more than this choose a medium duty type II , these are rated for loads of 225lbs. If you have employees you have the responsibility of employee safety, in this case, always choose a type I heavy duty 250lb.+ rated ladder.
    Never stand on top or even on the top rung of a stepladder. When on a straight or extension ladder do not use the top three rungs. Remember the usable length of a ladder is always less than its actual length. Consider also the fact that you will lose additional working height due to the angle with which it is setup. Take these points into consideration when deciding on length.
    When purchasing new check for potentially dangerous defects. On metal ladders check for dents, bent or twisted rungs, steps or rails. Wooden ladders should not have large knots, chips or cracks. All should be free of loose rungs or steps. The bottom step on all stepladders should have metal angle braces. Check a stepladder by standing on the first step and twisting, if it feels unsteady, don't boy it, Find another. Those made of metal should have slip resistant feet of either rubber or plastic they should also have slip resistant steps this is a desirable feature for wooden too.
    You'll never see the power company use metal. Always use wooden or fiberglass construction when anywhere in the vicinity of power lines, don't take the chance, it's not worth it.
    You can have an accident with even the best constructed equipment. Remember to set up t properly and use good common sense when working from a ladder.


    Straight and Extension Ladders
    To raise a straight ladder brace the lower end against the wall and grasp the top rung with both hands. Raise the top rung and walk underneath the ladder, moving down the rungs until it is is vertical.
    When using an extension type, raise it to the desired height, being sure the locks engage properly on both sides.
    If you are getting onto a roof, there should be 3 feet (at least three rungs) extending beyond the edge of the roof. The ground at the base should be both level and firm. Large flat wooden boards placed under the feet can level it on uneven ground or give a better footing on soft ground.
    If possible, secure the ladder. One way to do this is to have someone hold the bottom.
    *Never use in a strong wind.
    *The point where it rests against the wall should be flat and firm.
    *These should never be placed in front of a door that is not locked, blocked or guarded.
    *Before positioning, check for insect or bird nests under the eaves; when at the top this is no place to discover a wasp nest.
    Face the ladder when climbing or descending and use both hands. Mount from the center, not from the side. Tools should be carried in the pockets, in a bag attached to a belt, or raised and lowered by rope. Be sure that the soles of your shoes are clean and dry. Work facing the ladder, holding on with one hand. If it is ever necessary to work with both hands, hook one leg over the rung. Don't lean too far to the side while working. A good general guide is to keep your body centered between the rails. Instead of leaning to the side, get down and move the ladder. In case of sudden dizziness or a panicky feeling, bow your head, drape both arms over the rung in front of you, close your eyes, and wait until the feeling passes. Do not use these as scaffolds or for any purpose except those intended. Be very careful when using a metal around electrical wires or equipment. Many fatalities occur when metal ladders brush against power lines while being moved. Use only double-insulated or properly grounded electrical tools. To be safer, use only a dry wooden or non-conductive fiberglass ladder when working around electrical wires or equipment.


    Stepladders
    Erect a stepladder only on a flat level surface. Do not place it on a table or any similar platform for added height.
    Never use a stepladder unopened.
    Before climbing a stepladder, make sure that its legs are fully extended and the spreader locked. The locking device on some may present a pinching hazard, so keep fingers clear when setting these up.
    Do not step on the top platform or top step.
    Do not step on the bucket shelf or attempt to climb or stand on the rear section supports. They are not designed to support the weight of a person.
    Finally, no matter what kind of ladder you are using, never leave a raised ladder unattended. It could fall unexpectedly and injure someone.
    Storage and Maintenance
    To keep a ladder in good condition, proper storage and maintenance is a necessity. All types should be stored in a sheltered area. Those exposed to heat combined with dampness need a dry, well-ventilated storage area. A wooden ladder used outdoors should be shellacked, varnished or given two coats of linseed oil as a protective coating. When new some may already have protective coatings; this will vary with the manufacturer. Never paint these; the paint can hide defects. Straight and extension types should be stored horizontally on racks or hooks with support points at the top, middle, and bottom to prevent sagging and warping. Always inspect before each use for wear and damage. This is particularly important after a long period of storage or after being dropped. Have repair work done only by a competent repair shop. If there is major damage don't hesitate, discard it. Do not attempt to straighten bent metal. Never use any type damaged. Periodically tighten the reinforcing rods under the steps of a stepladder, the spreader hinges and other hardware.

    [/quote]

    Ya thats exactly why i started using the extenda wand and my X-jet! Thanks for the info.
    Jason Quick
    Quick's Power Washing
    Bloomington,Indiana
    www.quickspowerwashing.co

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